How do I look after my newly planted trees?
How do I look after my newly planted trees?
How do I look after my newly Planted trees?
Establishing larger trees (larger in this case means anything bigger than trees bought in a garden centre) can require more care and so we advise that you follow these simple rules for the first year or two in order your tree gets the best start to it’s life in your garden.
Important Note: The first few weeks after planting are crucial for establishing the plants' root systems. During this initial period, monitor your plants closely and ensure they receive consistent moisture.
If, at the time of delivery, any of the Goods have any defect or damage, please contact us immediately in writing. We shall either repair or replace any Goods which were defective at the time of delivery to you. Our liability is limited to repair or replacement of such Goods by similar goods or plants of similar age and quality appropriate to the season in which they are replaced. Kirman Design cannot accept responsibility for plants dying or becoming damaged due to neglect or use of inappropriate watering, fertilisation or soil conditions by you or at your property after delivering them to you. In the event that you do not advise us in writing of any defect or damage to the Goods within two days after delivery, you shall be deemed to have accepted the Goods.
Watering
By far the most important thing to do with your tree is to ensure that the full depth of roots do not dry out in the first couple of seasons after planting. All trees are different, but as a general rule, you will typically need 30 to 50 litres of water per square metre which equates to around 4 to 6 normal sized watering cans each week during times of dry weather. Trees which are already established will not need watering, with the exception of a severe drought.
Use a watering can with a rose attachment or a fine sprinkler as these will release water slowly and with less pressure, in the same way rain will fall on the plant. This prevents soil from washing away.
Water around the tree evenly across the whole root ball.
Trees that we have planted will be watered in when they are planted but you should continue with the watering regime as and when necessary from the time buds appear to the time the leaves have fallen (that is for deciduous trees).
Watering is advised as above for the first couple of growing seasons after being planted.
Evergreen trees do need some water during winter, especially if it is a particularly dry winter. Do this as and when rather than a constant regime.
Check any irrigation systems regularly to ensure that they are still working.
Keep in your head that just because it is raining, the trees are not necessarily getting the correct amount of water that they need. Rain sometimes runs off and does not get to the roots or other tree canopies prevents it getting to the place where it is needed; the root ball.
Make sure any water that your are applying is soaking into the soil after ten or so minutes.
Timing is everything
Best time to water: Early morning is ideal, between 06:00-10:00, as it allows the plants to absorb moisture before the day's heat causes rapid evaporation.
Second best option: Late afternoon or early evening, but avoid getting foliage wet overnight to prevent fungal diseases.
Avoid midday watering: High temperatures increase evaporation and reduce the efficiency of watering.
Water deeply and less often
Thorough soaking: Aim to water deeply, ensuring the water penetrates the soil to a depth of 15-30cm, encouraging deep root growth and improving drought resistance.
Avoid frequent, shallow watering: This encourages shallow root systems, making plants more vulnerable to drought and heat stress.
General guideline: Water once every few days, but the exact frequency depends on several factors like weather. If it’s just rained heavily then don’t water. If it’s 30C outside then they will definitely need it.
Check the soil moisture
Finger test: The most reliable way to determine if your plants need water is to feel the soil.
Container plants: Check the top 2 inches of soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water.
Garden plants: Insert your finger or a trowel 2-3 inches deep for smaller plants and 6-8 inches for larger ones and trees; water generously if the soil is dry at that depth. Adjust based on plant type, soil, and weather.
Adjust based on soil, and weather
Soil type: Sandy soils drain quickly and may need more frequent watering, while clay soils retain moisture longer and need heavier applications.
Weather conditions: Hot, dry weather or windy conditions increase the need for water, while rainy spells may mean less or no watering is needed.
Watering techniques
Watering cans: Useful for smaller plants and precise watering at the base, but can encourage light, frequent watering if not mindful.
Garden hoses: Can be efficient if used with a low, slow flow directly at the base of the plants, avoiding soil erosion.
Soaker hoses or drip irrigation: Excellent for delivering water slowly and directly to the root zone, minimizing waste and keeping foliage dry.
Sprinklers: Can be efficient for larger areas but are prone to evaporation, especially in hot weather.
Monitor and adjust
Observe your plants: Look for signs of wilting (drooping leaves), which can indicate underwatering or overwatering (check the soil to differentiate).
Yellowing leaves: Can be a sign of both overwatering and underwatering, so consider other symptoms.
Slow or stunted growth: Could indicate underwatering or nutrient deficiency.
Adapt your routine: Be flexible and adjust your watering schedule based on plant needs, weather, and your observations.
Feeding
No feeding is necessary in the first growing season after being planted. This is to try and encourage the tree’s roots to develop out into the existing soil in order for the plant to search for it’s own nutrients and water. If the existing surrounding soil is not particularly fertile then feeding the year after will help the root growth. Feed should be applied at around 70g per square metre (or 2oz per square yard) and be applied in spring.
Weeding
In the first five years after planting, it is important that you keep an eye on any weeds which may grow around the base of the tree. Weeds fight for nutrients, light and water with the newly planted tree so keep this in check.
Established trees do not suffer in the same way as the roots are deeper and wider and not competing as much with other plants.
Mulching
You may or may not have agreed for mulching to be included in your landscaping package. Whether you have or not, trees do be benefit from this to prevent weeds, aid with keeping moisture in the soil, add nutrients to the soil and support the growth of mycorrhizal fungi.
If you are thinking of mulching then apply your mulch in late winter, after any fertiliser has been applied. This will keep moisture in the soil before the start of the growing season in spring into summer.
Apply bark mulch, well-rotted manure or leafmould to a depth of around 7 or 8cm after clearing any existing weeds over an area of 50-75cm diameter around the tree. Keep the mulch directly from touching the tree as this will prevent any rotting of the trunk.
Tree guards
During times of high wind, any tree guards that have been fitted may have become displaced or removed completely. Replace and adjust as necessary and remove any grass growing inside them at the same time.
Adjusting ties and removing stakes
Examine any tree ties in early spring and again in early autumn and adjust the ties as necessary. Tighten if loose and loosen if the ties are constricting the growth of the trunk.
The ties and stakes should have done their job at the end of two following growing seasons and should be able to be removed.
Problems with tree establishment
Not enough water.
If a younger tree is not getting enough water it will not develop properly. If you think the tree is not getting enough water, dig into the ground with a large screw driver to see if the soil below is damp. If it’s dry then water is not penetrating to the full root ball.
Too much water.
Too much water is just as bad as not enough water for a tree. The symptoms can look very similar to under watering too which does not help.
Some of the tress may become yellow on lower branches or near to the trunk. Green leaves can become brittle.
Tree stress.
Trees can get stressed when they are transported and planted so keep your eye on them on the weeks and months afterwards as the symptoms often develop slowly.
Keep your eyes open for:
Appearance of abnormally small leaves.
Leaves are discoursed with pale green.
Unusually slow growth.
Development of autumn leaf colour before autumn.
Twig and branch die back.
Leaves that are wilting.
New growth that is very tender.
Bark that peels.
Fungi starting to grow from the bark and stems.
Pests.
Most trees are quite capable of withstanding a certain amount of attack by insects. The issue comes when insect populations become very high. These are generally only noticed once the insects have moved on so it’s important you keep your eyes on your trees, especially during spring and early summer. Check bark, stems and leaves for anything that is abnormal about the tree.
Treat any infections as you find them, ideally with none chemical solutions.
Fertiliser
Continue mowing, increasing frequency as necessary and lower the height of the cut closer to the level you would have in summer. The lawn should now be fed with lawn fertilizer and treated with a lawn weed killer or use an all in one weed and feed product. The soil is usually moist now but if there is a prolonged dry spell, water before the lawn shows signs of distress.
Pruning
Hold off any pruning for at least a year. Trimming branches mid-season can limit any growth potential for the following growing season.